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Surfing is an amazing sport with an impressive history. The exact origins of surfing are not certain, but it was first observed by Europeans on a ship in Tahiti back in 1767. Research suggests that surfing dates back to the ancient Polynesian cultures that existed long ago.
The Ancient Polynesians The first European encounter with surfing happened in 1767 off the coast of Tahiti. European sailors were intrigued by the Polynesians who could walk on water using long, heavy boards. For the Polynesians, surfing was a way to establish social rank and political power.
Aug 28, 2019 · Consensus on the history of surfing credits the Polynesians for the invention of the ‘Olo Surf Board,’ which they couldn’t leave behind when they settled the Hawaiian Islands around 400 C.E. From Hawaii, the sport laid dormant until a handful of world-class swimmers showcased it to the world.
Surfing is the granddaddy of all action sports, so old that no one really knows who first took to the sea on a board. What we do know is that it happened somewhere in Polynesia, and probably over a 1000 years ago. “How did it go from a Polynesian ritual to radical dudes down the beach?”
The first known occurrences of surfing are connected to the ancient Hawaiian tradition of "he'e nalu", meaning "wave-sliding". For this ancient Hawaiian culture, the sea had an attached persona, which could reflect emotions. A good day of surfing required the proper waves, and in order to convince the sea to provide these waves, Ancient Hawaiians relied on Kahunas (priests) to pray for good surf.
As James D. Houston and Ben Finney wrote in Surfing: A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport: "For surfing, the abolition of the traditional religion signaled the end of surfing's sacred aspects. With surf chants, board construction rites, sports gods and other sacred elements removed, the once ornate sport of surfing was stripped of much of its cultural plumage."
Oct 30, 2015 · History of Surfing When most people think of Hawaii, a tan surfer on a vibrant board, riding a turquoise wave comes to mind. Though this surface image is usually the only thing portrayed in mass media, surfing goes much deeper in it’s culture, history, and way of life.5/5(32)
Encyclopedia of Surfing is a nonprofit dedicated to preserving, celebrating, and occasionally goosing surf history and culture. The site is run by former SURFER Magazine editor Matt Warshaw.
From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for NonfictionIt is likely not terribly surprising that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bo...
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