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Jack London’s status as a celebrity author meant that his encounter with surfing was broadcast in the magazines and books read by so many, and now stands as an important historical account of surfing in Hawaii at the beginning of the last century.
Pick your favorite quotes on surfing, memorize them, and impress: "The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun." Phil Edwards "Out of water, I am nothing." Duke Kahanamoku "My passion for surfing was more than my fear of sharks." Bethany Hamilton "Surfing is attitude dancing." Gerry Lopez "Surfing to me is like playing music.
~ Jack London "It's funny, 'cause you think surfing is your whole life, but then when you make a family it seems like it's not at all." ... "Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable …
Mar 15, 2019 · A collection of surf quotes about life, love, the ocean, and travel. Here at Extreme Nomads HQ, we’re down for anything that serves to inspire our surf travels and and saltwater sessions — be it a bumper sticker-esque classic from a surfing legend or a fresh n’ frothy insight from a modern day poet.. This post is a collection of surfing quotes from our favourite essays, movies, books ...
Jack London, pseudonym of John Griffith Chaney, (born January 12, 1876, San Francisco, California, U.S.—died November 22, 1916, Glen Ellen, California), American novelist and short-story writer whose best-known works—among them The Call of the Wild (1903) and White Fang (1906)—depict elemental struggles for survival. During the 20th century he was one of the most extensively translated ...
Jul 13, 2020 · And I was just like, “Jack London, yes.” The parts where you write about the history of surfing were so fascinating to me, like when you go into the Lenape tribe summering in Rockaway hundreds of years ago.
Mar 20, 2020 · Jack London. Being in Hawaii, it's almost impossible not to be fit, I think. Henry Ian Cusick. Hawaii is still the single most frequent fantasy destination, not because of political stability or conveniences, but because Hawaii seduces the imagination. It's the perfect postcard - …
Aug 12, 2019 · Jack London was a 19th century American author and journalist, best known for the adventure novels White Fang and The Call of the Wild. Synopsis Jack London …
To Build a Fire, a Short Story by Jack London. Day had broken cold and grey, exceedingly cold and grey, when the man turned aside from the main Yukon trail and climbed the high earth- bank, where a dim and little-travelled trail led eastward through the fat spruce timberland.
Jul 22, 2020 · Founded in 2010, The Inertia is the definitive voice of surf and outdoors. We approach the natural world and its devoted culture with curiosity, optimism, and respect.
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