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Jack London’s status as a celebrity author meant that his encounter with surfing was broadcast in the magazines and books read by so many, and now stands as an important historical account of surfing in Hawaii at the beginning of the last century.
Apr 01, 2014 · Let’s talk about how Jack London introduced surfing to California. As even the youngest grommet knows, surfing, or he’e nalu (wave sliding), was …
Find Jack London on Amazon There is an ecstasy that marks the summit of life, and beyond which life cannot rise. And such is the paradox of living, this ecstasy comes when one is most alive, and it comes as a complete forgetfulness that one is alive.Died: Nov 22, 1916
Pick your favorite quotes on surfing, memorize them, and impress: "The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun." Phil Edwards "Out of water, I am nothing." Duke Kahanamoku "My passion for surfing was more than my fear of sharks." Bethany Hamilton "Surfing is attitude dancing." Gerry Lopez "Surfing to me is like playing music.
Explore some of Jack London best quotations and sayings on Quotes.net -- such as 'I would rather be ashes than dust I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brilliant blaze than it should be stifled by dry-rot. I would rather be a superb meteor, every atom of me in magnificent glow, than a sleepy and permanent planet. The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
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