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That’s what Sine Qua Non, the title of the episode dedicated to Greg Long and the psychology of big-wave surfing means, and over the course of the last month - during interviews with Greg, and the folks who have witnessed and supported his ascent in the world of big-wave surfing, it’s a phrase that has become increasingly poignant.Author: Zach Weisberg
Oct 12, 2012 · Directed by Richard Yelland. With Greg Long. The Inertia is proud to announce the launch of our new documentary film series, which aims to tell the best stories in surfing. Period. The first, 24-minute episode provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world's most decorated big wave ...Actors: Greg Long
Oct 10, 2012 · Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of...
BIG WAVES & FEARLESS FUN: THE PSYCHOLOGY OF SURF WITH GARRETT MCNAMARA. Home About. About Luke Storey Press ... The documentary will cover surfers who have experienced injuries and were told not to go back to big wave surfing. 12:05 — Garrett’s rough childhood and how that contributed to his determination to succeed.
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May 25, 2020 · For me, they said, I probably should never surf big—probably won't be able to, what they told me. Cody, I don't think his injuries ever slowed him down. CJ definitely was not interested. So, both of us overcoming our injuries and going back to Nazare, surfing the biggest waves in the world.
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“Traditionally, big-wave surfers are loosely defined as those who surf waves in excess of 20 feet. I believe, and am finding, that these individuals have a level of courage far exceeding the ‘average’ person, seek challenges on a regular basis and can provide a perspective of sport psychology that may differ from participants in traditional sports.
In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet (6.2 m to 15.5 m) below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. Surfers may have less than 20 seconds …
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