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Why I love surfing . Self portrait from Easky, Ireland in october 2012. More than 20 years ago my good friend Mathias Wiberg asked me if I wanted to tag along to Easky, Ireland and learn how to surf. I was in the middle of my snowboard career and surfing felt like something I really wanted to learn how to do so I of course said yes.
So, despite onshore surfing days, one foot waves, cold water and choppy waters, surfers always return to the scene of the crime. Why is surfing so addictive? Is it any different from other sports, such as soccer, running, swimming or tennis? Surfing is highly addictive. It is one of the most popular board sports ever invented.
Oct 23, 2019 · In this video i explain to you why I love surfing and why that passion for surfing will never go away. I surf about 10 times in this video as usual haha. I couldn't ask for anything better then ...Author: Koa Rothman
Mar 07, 2018 · Why I’m in love with surfing It was the coldest day of winter and I had decided that meant the perfect time to go for my first solo surf. I psyched myself into pulling on my cold, damp wetsuit, chucked my board in the boot of the car and drove myself to Godrevy beach.
It's fair to say that humans are not the only living being who appreciate surfing waves - dolphins do love surfing the world's finest breaks. They use their smooth bodies to navigate across the unbroken parts of the waves, trimming the surf line as surfers do.
Because, through out the span of your life as a 'surfer', it is an individual effort with no winner or loser and you only rely on yourself. It also is a sport/lifestyle with a constant learning process. I would say the first two years of surfing...
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